HomeТранспортRelated VideosMore From: 50sKid

BMW 330i 325i E46 CCV Replace & Intake Removal (Part 1) - See It Clearly! P0171 P0174 Repair

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Frustrated with those other CCV replacement videos where they basically tell you to fish those tubes through the intake manifold blind? Well in my video I go ahead and remove the intake manifold, which lets you get access to replace a lot of vacuum lines and other components, and in doing so I give you a view of exactly how to fish the CCV tube through the manifold and connect it to the oil separator so that you can SEE what you need to do clearly, should you decide not to remove it. In this video I work on my 2002 BMW 330i. To see the video on how to remove all the usual suspects: https://youtu.be/Zt3XFkd97dc I also clean the throttle body and idle air control valve, which really gave me a boost in responsiveness, by the way. In part 2 I will show you the various vacuum lines you can replace as well as the intake manifold gasket and I show you how to put everything back together. Look for that next week! Silicone vacuum hose 3.5mm: https://amzn.to/2AGXKt1 To get a set of the cold climate CCV components: https://amzn.to/2AJNHUi Which consists of: 11617533400 - oil separator 11617533398 - valve cover to separator tube 11617533399 - intake manifold to separator tube 11157532629 - oil dipstick drain tube 11617504536 - intake manifold return tube To get a set of the standard CCV components: https://amzn.to/2M2urFX Which consists of: 11617501566 - oil separator 11611432559 - valve cover to separator tube 11617504535 - intake manifold to separator tube 11157532649 - oil dipstick drain tube 11617504536 - intake manifold return tube To get an Intake Manifold Gasket Set: https://amzn.to/2AHL3yb
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Text Comments (548)
Bond James Bond (2 days ago)
I did not remove my intake manifold and it only took me 45 minutes to change my entire CCV. I simply installed everything in segments. It's not easy but very doable.
David Avant (7 days ago)
Great videos from the 50's Kid !!!!!
Robert Williams (8 days ago)
Compared to an s13 this is rocket engineering
Jamal Al Al Galaa (8 days ago)
Geoff Guenole (16 days ago)
Great video and easy to follow. With the Euro 328i models and the brake booster etc on the opposite side it's a little different. Also the fuel lines are different as there are two lines with one being a return line. The sucking air jet pump is underneath the inlet manifold just above where the metal flap that goes down onto the engine block. The evap solenoid hose and the line to the sucking air jet pump should be fitted before the inlet manifold is put back on. By removing the panel that covers the heater fan motor I had plenty of room at the back of the engine and didn't have to disconnect the fuel lines.
Nermin C. (17 days ago)
Who else is here because their intake manifold blew up (literally)?
Bradley berry (22 days ago)
Just did mine this weekend, instructions were very clear and precise. When I put the fuel rail back it started spraying gas. Please help
LiliaCarino (25 days ago)
Roberto Lopez tank you for your videos help us a lot step by step people like you help us to save money because is very very hart to find honest and fear mechanic
Javier Ibarra (28 days ago)
50 my car suddenly shakes and looses all the power and don’t run faster than like 15-20 miles. Any feedback I have the e46 m56. If anyone had a similar problem please share your feedback as well.
Martin Connor (1 month ago)
Now I know why my dealer charged so much to change the pipe.
John Blood (2 months ago)
I need to know where to locate my output speed sensor on my 03 330i?? Any help?
Jesus Reyes (2 months ago)
Just finished doing the ccv but now it turns off when I put it in reverse or drive but won’t turn off if I’m giving it gas before putting it in drive. What could it be? It idles fine
steve goosney (3 months ago)
Spell check.... not pool peek, but an oil leak....
steve goosney (3 months ago)
Hi Jason, I've been watching you videos, my wife and I bought a 2002 325i for our kids to learn to drive in... it had a pool peak, thus how I found you. On this video you discussed the disa valve, I think that is what you called it, rockauto calls it an intake manifold actuator... when I turn the flapper and put my finger over the hole, when I let go of the flapper it turns back to where it was.... assuming that means it's dead....? The rebuild kit I've found only has the flapper parts.... your thoughts? Thanks! Steve
Dan Southern (3 months ago)
What a POS design. Forget it.
Joe Monico (3 months ago)
Your videos are much appreciated! When reinstalling the intake manifold....injectors and fuel rail specifically. Can I assemble the injectors into the rail and slide on the circular retainer clips and then press the whole rail/injector assembly into the intake? I ask this because I'm afraid of sliding on the retainer clips onto the injectors, afterwards (if pressing the rail onto the injectors with injectors having been placed first) and losing the retainers inside the engine - especially with the rear injector and the confined space. Have you tried setting the assembled injector/rail before? Thank you in advance.
Dame25 (4 months ago)
Sir, YOU SAVED MY WALLET AND MY LIFE with this video. I fixed all of my vacuum leaks and my car purrs like a kitten now. My level of confidence for getting deeper into my engine has increased tremendously. Now that I have done this, I’ve noted several other jobs that I want to undertake to fix my 2004 325CI. Thank you!!
Ascendz Ryan (4 months ago)
328i. If you have a 328i, the throttle body is different! The throttle body on the 328i is not electronic. Well, the position sensor is obviously but the movement of it is done via a cable that goes from the thottle pedal to the throttlebody.
Jose G (4 months ago)
Hey 50sKid, I followed both videos to the T as I had to change the coolant pipes below the manifold. Great video btw, changed out CCV and replaced vacuum hoses as well. Took it apart and put it back together, started up rough but smoothed out shortly after. About 40 or 50 miles later I got a check engine, P0332 and P0327 Knock Sensor 1 and 2 Circuit Low Input. I'm not sure what caused this other than me degreasing the engine and maybe getting the connector or the sensors wet but they should have dried by now (its been a week). Took to my mechanic, there's no knocking or anything but engine is low on power, he says that it should go away once it dries (a week or so) Any thoughts?
Michael Phillips (4 months ago)
I love your videos. However, just FYI, but what you refer to as engine grounds at 20:21 are actually the knock sensors.
50sKid (4 months ago)
Michael Phillips doh. Shame on me 😕
Daniel Bach (4 months ago)
Does anyone know the nut size on the lower bracket of the manifold? Mine never had it when I did the removal of everything so trying to get all the pieces back to where there suppose to be
50sKid (4 months ago)
John Smith (4 months ago)
Awesome. First time seeing the CCV in it's place. No other video has ever shown it. Thanks.
Tim Lawler (5 months ago)
Excellent video, very informative,  very well shot with good explanation.    This is the third video I have watched.    Just bought a 2005 325i with leaky cooling tubes last week,  replaced them yesterday.    This instruction is the best I have found on   YouTube.
Brad Dunkley (5 months ago)
Thank you so much for your videos! I am a new owner of an 04 325xi, and have replaced all the hoses, boots, cvv, fuel regulater, disa, and the mas. The car runs a lot better the first time you drive it each day. As soon as I turn the car off and turn it back on there is a delay when pressing gas pedal from a complete stop. The car stalls, or almost stalls and runs very sluggish the rest of the day. I’m thinking it’s a sensor because it drives great for the first drive of the day. Please help!!! I’m getting so frustrated and about to get rid of this car but I do love it. You can contact me at [email protected] if you have time. Thanks again so much for all your videos. I am not a mechanic and thanks to you have been able to do everything so far. Thank you for your time. Brad
william thomson (5 months ago)
I've done it I had post through hole and twist through hole after 20 minutes my engine still has has slight suction do you think the head could be going
773steve (6 months ago)
thank u right on 100% were it fails mine was the same
Hilton Bastick (6 months ago)
FYI @50sKID —- DO NOT TIGHTEN YOUR Trottle Body to 11 FtLBS!!! You WILL SNAP THE BOLTS if you have a 2000 528i E39. Might be a different bolt on some of these engines but I could feel the bolts stretch as I kept tightening and against better judgement kept going thankfully I didn’t have to drill it out or have stripped threads on the brass insert on the intake manifold. I set my torque to about 5 and just left it at that. I had to go to Pull-A-Part to get the right bolt and even on a Throttle Body that had never been removed (I’m making a huge assumption on this) It wasn’t nearly 11 FtLBS.
stock leezy (6 months ago)
Good video
BimmerSlick (6 months ago)
Are E46's still worth quite a bit in USA/Canada? I love your videos and I'd love to do all this work to mine but they're so cheap it's literally not worth it unless you have a unicorn top spec 330ci. My 325ci Sport cost me £1200 and have already spent over £1k in servicing and maintenance still needs loads doing and is simply not worth it. Super sad
50sKid (6 months ago)
It's a labor of love!
Raul Albiter (7 months ago)
Like i sed on my last comment I changed the ccv valve and disconnected the battery and after I was finished the car wood not star do you know why?
Raul Albiter (7 months ago)
Hey man I need your help i have a 2004 BMW 525i and I got a code p0113 the intake air temp sensor and I looked every where for it and I can find it some videos say that it's right on top of the intake I took the intake out and no sensor some people say it's together with the mass air flow sensor what do you know about this hope you can help thatnks
Anton Krystev (7 months ago)
Is this they same way for a m52b20tu ? I hear it when i turn off the car , but its not that loud. But in future i may need to do it 130k miles on it .
1BadMother (7 months ago)
What's that hose under the fuel rail @ 13:08?
James More (7 months ago)
Great camera work and calm explanations. Maybe one of viewers could make a list of tools and post. I'm too worn out, haha.
spera (8 months ago)
BMW is using really poor plastic quality in some places.
Brandon Mayer (8 months ago)
You sir, are the Renaissance man. Thank you for everything once again, Id guess you play an instrument/sing or draw/design too. Ive only messed with VB and Html. any advice on what programming I should Start with relative to preparation for what is in demand??
BTNHarmony18 (8 months ago)
50s kid, couldn’t have done it without you. A couple critiques and words to the wise. I greatly regretted not marking my electrical harnesses. It takes mere seconds to set up a key system with duct type. Just mark both the female and male connectors with 01 or A, whatever. Putting everything back together will be much simpler. Also, it is very important as you go to mark plastic baggies with wear the bolts/nuts come from. Again, this makes everything so much easier and less stressful on the backend. I had some trouble identifying vacuum lines because they were already severed. If any one needs help on that just message me. Lastly, I did not remove my fuel rail, I simply pushed it to the back, worked fine. Thanks for you me hard work buddy.
o.OtakuLife (5 months ago)
So you dont have to remove the fuel rail?
luigi marroquin (8 months ago)
I'm stuck my disa won't come out when I pull on it, I remove both T40 screws, why?
AnthonyGall0 (8 months ago)
i subbed. keep making videos about e46's. Your videos are great.
Stephen Heichelbech (8 months ago)
50s kid: Thank you so much for your videos. I was able to replace the CCV over a 10 day (following your video to a "T" and ordering all replacement parts/correct tools. I really appreciate you doing this: you've saved me thousand of dollars. *** A note: When I fired the car back up, the ABS, DCS lights came on. I checked on Youtube for those areas and the fix was to: put the car in "N" and turn the wheels left and right....I guess air bubbles where in there? Bam, lights went out in about 8-10 seconds. Once again, you are the best and thank you very much for the video/s.
Graham Banks (9 months ago)
Big day today, Some TLC for my chariot - 2001 325i 133K kilometres, full cooling system refresh (except heater core), all new gaskets and vacuum lines, CCV, crankshaft sensor and both camshaft sensors, clutch fan delete, OFHG, Oil and filter change, Transmission oil/filter change and pressure valve update..... 11 hours to do the job including fixing things that broke when I tried to remove them... the plastic pipes under the intake manifold broke when I tried to move them. But all worth while, the old girl is running like a Swiss watch now. My thanks to those who put up videos especially the 50sKid....I appreciate your efforts Jason, makes it easier when you know what to expect and how to do it... saved myself about AU$1.5k in labour charges.
Howling Media (9 months ago)
hi,I watch your videos and I think they are very informative,but I have a question about the disa valve is it supposed to operate all the time, even if you don't rive up the motor too 3-4 k rpms ? I read about it in bimmerforums mine works when I test with 12 volts running threw it and test the harness and juice running threw it ,but my scanner says the disa valve help ,help any kind of info would be greatly appreciated
Rasim Gedikoglu (9 months ago)
You are a Bmw exper
Peter Bogomolov (9 months ago)
HELP! ANYONE! First off awesome video. Thanks for taking the time and explaining everything as you go! My father and I just finished putting (we hope) everything back together. However once we reconnected the battery something began spooling up in the engine compartment. I stuck my hand inside and found that the starter was spooling up and hot to the touch. Mind you the car is still off. Turning the car on has no effect just a constant spooling sound from the starter. Any and all help is appreciated!
Lahurent Vasquez (9 months ago)
@14:51 *** sorry wrong part of the video
Lahurent Vasquez (9 months ago)
what size are the vacuum hoses that you cut in @17:47? im having trouble finding the size online the engine is a m54b30 and it has the lines clipped when i bought it, any info will help a lot thank you!
Lahurent Vasquez (9 months ago)
@14:51 is the correct line i am talking about
Mike perez (9 months ago)
Great video I did mine without removing the intake it was hard but it looks like a lot of work if I had taken off the intake thanks
Mike Raphone (10 months ago)
great information. I removed the top pipe connected to the valve cover inserted a hose that fit inside that and lite up cigar. Blew the smoke down in it and saw it come up from somewhere below. After getting the junk out of the way I tried the smoke back inand saw the smoke coming up from the sock kniotted material that goes around the pipe going from the valve to the dipstcik.I assume if the pipe did not leak it would have been a simple test to see if the ccv system would have some back pressure.Anyhow the smoke came out so time to replace the plastic.
michael w (10 months ago)
Sir (10 months ago)
I need a fast response from anyone. Im gonna assume this process is very similar to the E53 x5 correct?
Willy Beneche (10 months ago)
I need your help to figure out why my temp gauge climbs to hot as soon as I crank the my 02 BMW 528i?
jose vanscoit (10 months ago)
Can I pay you to do this work? It's too much even with your instructions for me?
ian young (10 months ago)
Hi 50, I have just finished my CCV system on my 2001 325 Convertible your video was very helpful and informative, However please check the torque info on the throttle body excellent video.
Edgar Andrade (11 months ago)
Hey there!! I have a quick question I have a 2003 325i and it’s says I have a large leak and misfire cylinders 2 and 4 do you know what could be the cause of those codes? And where do you buy all the parts you need?
Edgar Andrade (11 months ago)
If anything please let me know if you need my email or phone number because I’m trying to fix my car but I always find new problems with my car. Thank you I will appreciate your help a lot
Lewis Wilson (11 months ago)
hey 50skid :) thanks for the vids .. just removed my dip stick to find that some one previously has lost the oring :D
Ish W (11 months ago)
Hi 50sKid. At 14:20 you speak about the hose line in the back of the engine. What is the name of the line in case I need to replace it? Is it part#4 on the diagram here?: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BS53-USA-10-2002-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=11_2203 Thanks
50sKid (11 months ago)
3.5mm ID vacuum hose
jwizzz (11 months ago)
Just finished the job for the second time. Removing the Intake is the only way to go, trying to jam a cold weather kit in with the manifold in place is too difficult. I ended up cracking the middle between the cyclone and the diaphragm on install. These directions are perfect! and yanking the manifold is pretty simple. Have your gaskets and a new CCV kit ready to go, and you'll have everything right in a few hours. Thanks!!!!!
Brian Arreola (1 year ago)
Hi 50skid ! So I'm assuming this is the same procedure if I have a 323i 2000 bmw right. Sorry I'm three years later lol
Brian Arreola (1 year ago)
50sKid awesome thank you 50kid! Keep up the good work, love your videos!
50sKid (1 year ago)
Your video's have rejuvenated my love for these BMW series. Just completed my repairs also, thank you.
Joey Baaklini (1 year ago)
Great videos mate i have oil consumption problem 1L for 1k mile its from ccv system ? If no how can i diagnose that my ccv is failed and need replacement ?
JoJo Squirrel (1 year ago)
Hey man, first of all thanks for the great videos! I've referenced them all through a head gasket repair and now the car is running great but I've been chasing a P0171 for a day now and everything appears to be good as I just went back through checking all hoses and connections but before I pull the valve cover to check gasket for leaks or cracks in the cover I noticed the oil filler cap looks a little suspect. I think it may be bad, this would cause enough of a vacuum leak to eventually throw a code if it wasn't sealing properly, right?
JoJo Squirrel (1 year ago)
Last update. Code P1188 kept coming up. I finally built a smoke tester and found a huge hole where the valve cover had cracked by the center grommet. New valve cover and finally all systems ready for smog. I wish I had done the smoke test sooner.
JoJo Squirrel (1 year ago)
Okay, so the new gaskets are sealing good and the new cap as well. Still threw codes so I turned my attention to the O2 sensors and what did I find out? I found out that I'm a dumbass. I somehow had bank one O2 sensors in bank two and visa versa. Swapped them and cleared the codes and its been 35 miles of driving with no errors. I'm surprised that it ran so well with them reversed. Anyways, runs great now.
JoJo Squirrel (1 year ago)
Think I found the source of my frustration. I decide to pull the coil packs for cylinder 1 and 3 as everything is pointing to bank 1 and the misfires are on those cylinders and low and behold the coil boots are covered in oil. Pulling the valve cover now. I suspect the center gasket is toast.
JoJo Squirrel (1 year ago)
Thanks for the confirmation. So I take an inspection of the hoses without removing too much and decide to put it back together and use the oil cap from my daughters 325i. and it immediately threw 3 codes. P1188 and P0301 and P0303 misfires. Do you think on of the bank 1 02 sensors could be bad and sending bad databack to the ECM to lean out the fuel? I thought of going to buy the supplies to make a smoke test to rule out the possibility of vacuum leak but I can just borrow 02 sensors from the 325i if need be to test. I'm not sure what direction to go with this now. Your thoughts are appreciated.
50sKid (1 year ago)
+JoJo Squirrel it absolutely would
great gardengnome (1 year ago)
Don't forget the upgraded COLD WEATHER oil dipstick tube. It is not usually included in the cold weather CCV kit (which I had done 3 years ago but I found later I had the factory oil dipstick tube, which the CCV drains into and can easily get blocked). I ordered the genuine BMW part, and had it installed with a new oil O-ring to connect it to the oil pan (very very hard to get the O ring to seat properly).
50sKid (1 year ago)
Ah, good tip.
jongkeun lee (1 year ago)
in my opinion its much easier with oil filter housing removed. So best way is do both jobs(ccv and oil filter housing gasket replacement) at the samew time.thx for great video Jason.
DEATHCON51 (1 year ago)
Hey 50skid, I saw you linked the Radium Engineering catch can kit. Do you know how quickly these fill up / How often to drain? I recently did a CCV job like in your video (Thank you so much for your videos, they help a ton!), but I just wanted to prepare for the future and might switch to a catch can when my CCV cracks again.
Raine Man (1 year ago)
Great explanation and video, mate. Thank you. If you have time, can you please give me some advice? I am Perth Western Australia and have an E46 318i with an N42 engine. ON starting from cold (it doesn't get very cold here though) the engine stutters and the accelerator pedal position makes no difference. It will stutter for about ten to 15 seconds and then die. It may do this twice. Turn the key off and then start again and it will run smoothly. I have replaced the MAF with no difference. Any ideas?
utube4greenfuture (1 year ago)
Your video's are awesome, easy to follow, full of valuable knowledge. Having to remove so many parts to fix a frick'n hose is crazy. It's almost like the engineers designed the system to keep an active revenue stream for all the labor involved.
KONABLUE 5.0H (1 year ago)
Can you just clean the old pcv valve and hoses And it work again?
Jelani Perry (1 year ago)
I just replaced my ccv I did not disconnect the battery prior to starting the job, I removed all electrical connections while the battery was connected. Everything is back together, when I started the car it was idling around 1200rpms it warmed up and dropped to maybe 1100, way too high. Then when I put the car in drive I got no throttle response when pushing the gas pedal, it can get up to about 40mph slowly. Did I mess up any settings by not disconnecting the battery before I disconnected the throttle body or did I just plug in something in the wrong spot since I've read about ppl doing just that and having this issue? This was not a happening prior to
Jelani Perry (1 year ago)
50sKid I went back through and got all the connections right, she's running better than ever. And a blown fuse was the culprit for the car not starting as a result of the connections being crossed up. Very simple fix. Thanks!
Jelani Perry (1 year ago)
50sKid so I tried to move the car to start going back through my connections and it wouldn't start up now. I had it running Wednesday evening although it wasn't right it did at least start up. I read on forums where if you have some connections plugged in wrong it can blow a 30amp fuse for the fuel pump...have you heard of this? My battery is less than a year old fyi. Or could a jump in these freezing temps in the Midwest be needed?
50sKid (1 year ago)
Jelani Perry you plugged something in wrong. Maybe the disa valve connector is switched around. Go back through the job.
Quartz Nation (1 year ago)
Wow cool video bruv thanks
JAMES EARLY (1 year ago)
I trying to figure out if my head gasket is blown the 2 cooling lines that run under the manifold are leaking. Theres no white smoke or rough idle, and it runs great. But I loose coolant like crazy, any ideas?
50sKid (1 year ago)
+JAMES EARLY well you can use a leakdown test to see if air is leaking into the radiator, however it does not always work perfectly. For instance, I’m rebuilding the Toyota 4Runner engine right now and it was leaking coolant into the cylinders like crazy yet the leakdown test didn’t spit out air into the radiator because the head gasket was blown right in the area between two cylinders so the path of least resistance was into the adjacent cyl. But in your case it may work. You can also get a chemical tester that is sort of like a big turkey blaster that sucks air from the radiator and sees if it turns a fluid a different color if it contains exhaust gasses. Search YouTube for videos on that. I would try the leakdown test first.
John Bahadur (1 year ago)
You rock dude !
George Avtandilov (1 year ago)
Starting at 14:49, there are a couple vacuum hoses connected to the back of the manifold that you take out prior to removing the manifold. Well, as it turns out, I don't have those hoses. I have 2005 330Ci ZHP...Do you know why I wouldn't have the aforementioned tubes?
50sKid (1 year ago)
They just changed a few things, don't worry about it. If you have caps there, leave them there. Just make sure nothing is open all the time--that would be a vacuum leak.
RegencyAxe (1 year ago)
Did you need to re-program the throttle body?
50sKid (1 year ago)
No you shouldn't need to do that unless you replace it with a different one.
alexis padilla (1 year ago)
My fuel rail is a little hard to take off. I have an 03 325ci. Is it okay/safe to put some type of oil to make it easier to take off or just keep trying to pull it off?
alexis padilla (1 year ago)
So my crankcase vent hose broke while I was taking out my intake manifold. Is it possible/safe to use a different hose like a rubber vacuum hose to replace it or do I really need to have that exact hose?
50sKid (1 year ago)
Yeah that will be fine but I do prefer silicone spray as it is rubber safe. Also try wiggling your fuel injectors side to side to break loose the o-rings
Natalie Jane (1 year ago)
Hi Jayson im just taking a chance if you could help me out? What i did is change the ccv,cleaned the TB and ICV and make sure all connectors are tightly intact. After i connect all connectors and the engine did start for some reason gas pedal has no response i mean if step on it my feet goes way down but no response its like no sound bromm...you know sounds on pedal when you step on it. I got EML light on, Triangular light is on,ABS is on,Seatbelt light in on. I do have misfires1 and 2 cylinders and visible large cracked on my upper intake boot.Do you think its the throttle body? Sound of my engine is like catching its breath. But it doesnt die just no response from the gas pedal/Throttle. Thank you very much.
Natalie Jane (1 year ago)
50sKid Hi Jayson Does an e46 325xi 2001 has a throttle accelator cable? Thank you.
Natalie Jane (1 year ago)
Jayson this it what my engine sounds like. Thank you for the your time. https://youtu.be/dDo-huqOxAQ
Natalie Jane (1 year ago)
Jayson, what is the connection of a cracked intake boot from the throttle response? My gas pedal is so ease to step all way down.
Natalie Jane (1 year ago)
50sKid thank you
50sKid (1 year ago)
Well if you have a cracked intake boot that would be a massive vacuum leak and that would explain it.
juan flores (1 year ago)
Where's Part #2 bro???
The Project D JF (1 year ago)
Congratulations. perfect explanation. I do not know English. I found it easy, to explain calmly, gesturing, showing with great focus. very good. just an opinion, make a list of the tools you need in writing. at the beginning of the video.
The Project D JF (1 year ago)
I used google translate to write
Leon Warner (1 year ago)
Greetings 50skid, Love your highly informative videos. Thanks for helping maintain our beautiful cars. I am getting the dread p0174 code. My car receives an error message saying engine malfunction reduce power, rough idle and it burns 1qtr oil in less than 1000 miles should I just replace the ccv ?
Leon Warner (1 year ago)
50sKid so I changed the CCV and it definitely eliminated the loud noise and rough idle thanks again however I still got the engine malfunction reduce power when I took for a run anything else you think may cause it? Btw I have an e63
Leon Warner (1 year ago)
50sKid thanks a million
50sKid (1 year ago)
+Leon Warner absolutely although that will not solve the oil consumption. You need to do the o2pilot mod as well
IQ (1 year ago)
Your videos are great! I have a friend I'm helping that has a 2002 330Ci and wants to replace ALL vacuum lines AND related components ALL at one time. He bought the car new, and wants to keep it as close to new as possible! Anyway, I have two questions 1) do you have a complete list of vacuum related components for this car, and 2) what manufacturers / suppliers do you recommend given your experience? He wants high quality, not lowest price. Thanks for any info you can provide. Keep up these great vids!!
TT Innovations (1 year ago)
Just replace the PCV and starter in my 2003 bmw 330ci thanks for the video, It was SUPER HELPFUL !!! prob saved me 2-4 extra hours, Thank You Thank You !!! AWSOME Videos
Jeff Trenschel (1 year ago)
THANK YOU THANK YOU 50’s kid for your complete and comprehensive videos. Your detail and sequence format makes it easy to follow and learn. I talked my CCV and started with your videos and all went super well. I could have done this DIY without you. You make owning an E46 enjoyable and Cheaper.
Jeff Trenschel (1 year ago)
I have to say thank you -THANK you 50’s Kid for creating this vlog. I find you videos most complete and comprehensive down to the smallest faint details. This make ALL the difference. I had predicted an a bad starter for my 03 325i Touring and this Visio allowed me to get to it and then I moved on to your “starter replacement “ video. Could NOT have done this job without you. So thank you again I love my car and you allow me to enjoy it even more!
Kyu Kim (1 year ago)
Great vid Jason, I have question regarding on ccv. I currently have p0171 and 0174 both bank running lean. I managed to find leak which was cracked hose from vent hose connecting to oil dipstick. I managed to change the hose from under the car. However I still feel car is losing vacuum. I tried to reset code with scanner but no luck, so my question is (1) If it did fix the issue does code disappear after computer recognize the change after long drive? (2) And should I just change whole CCV?
Johannes Ndahangwapo (1 year ago)
Hi guys i have e46 328 bmw this car was just driving well until i changed my water and forgot to put anti freeze so while i was driving the water bottle burst and i just pulled off road right there,towed the car to the nearest town.I than bought a new bottle put it in and now the car loose power when you drive it fast infact it cant go longer than even 5 km than you can have the accelerater pressed in full but car wont perform I replaced the camshaft sensor and now its switching off while driving Please help
cj g (1 year ago)
Great video! Just a minor correction though. At about the 27 minute mark, you disconnected the knock sensors from the wiring harness. They are knock sensors - not grounds.
cj g (1 year ago)
I meant the 20 minute mark....
Don Caudle (1 year ago)
@50’s kid. I did this to my car (530i 3litre i6) following your video. Worked perfectly! Thank you. Next is the oil housing gasket. How do I remove the fan???
Jason Crouch (1 year ago)
Jason, In this video you have a warning saying do not move the butterfly valve in the throttle body when cleaning it. Can you tell me what can happen if it does get moved a little during the cleaning process. I am putting my intake back in and would like to know what i should look for if it doesn't start or runs poorly. Thanks Man!
Jason Crouch (1 year ago)
I think I'm ok since I never opened my butterfly valve. The only thing I did was apply a little pressure when cleaning it to the point that the valve may have cracked open just a hair while getting the carbon built up on the edge of the wings. I will post an update when I get it buttoned up. I have an M56 and that has no bottom mount on the intake, no CCV, and no purge valve. Also, like a dumb ass, I failed to connect my fuel line breather that mounts to the bottom of the intake before mounting it to the engine. So I've wasted most of my day screwing with that, so I am way behind as of now. Jason, Thanks for the quick reply to my question today, I really am impressed at your attention to detail and find you to be a top notch resource for DIY'ers.
50sKid (1 year ago)
+Jason Crouch it's too easy for the little plastic gears inside to skip and when that happens the thing is junk. You can't disassemble it, it's a sealed unit. I forget the exact problems that people have, whether it's surging or what not but you'll know when it happens
nino lo (1 year ago)
Hi thanks for this video! I have a question.... My disa valve doesnt have a round pin at the end. I was really carefull when i removed it so it doesnt fall in the intake manifold but it just dont have the pin...what doed that mean?? I took a picture I would like to show you. Thanks for your help!!
nino lo (1 year ago)
Looks like the new disa valve models doesn't have the same pin at the end. Older models like yours had the metallic pin and new models have a falt metal (or plastic not sure) pin. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-intake-manifold-adjuster-disa-11617544805 Another important question, I really dont know how many vacuum hoses do I need to replace.. could you help me ? I'm going to buy a 5 meter 3.5mm x 1.8mm vacuum hose https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-vacuum-line-5-meter-11727545323 but I need to know the location of theses hoses! Thanks a lot!
50sKid (1 year ago)
+nino lo that someone removed it before you owned the car?
Bernas phiri (1 year ago)
Hey 50's Kid i need your help. I have a 2003 Model E46 320i BMW, i have been hearing a humming noise on the left side of my engine when i Turn on my Ignition and when i turn off the engine. The sound takes about 5 Seconds. would you know what is causing this humming noise its so irritating
50sKid (1 year ago)
I'm afraid not--I'd have to be there to figure it out
Rob Lapp (1 year ago)
Hi Jason, I have a 2004 325Ci convertible with 133K miles. I am the original owner, and am getting the dreaded PO171 error and the service engine soon light is on. My car also runs rough and if I accelerate hard in 3rd gear up a steep hill, it will misfire and barely run until I stop and restart it. I'm not doing this regularly, it happened once and the light came on, and I did it again to verify. I'm almost positive the CCV and associated hoses are original, as is the DISA and vanos. It also uses oil, not quite 1 qt/1000 miles, maybe I can go 1500 miles. The mass airflow sensor was replaced about 10K miles ago, I think it is ok, and the plugs and coils about 15K ago. So I am thinking of replacing the CCV and adding the 02Pilot Mod at the same time. My question is should I replace the vanos seals and maybe the DISA at the same time? This would seem to cover most of the possible vacuum leaks. Is there a way to tell if the DISA and vanos are bad? Thanks, Rob
Rob Lapp (1 year ago)
I watched your video on checking the DISA valve, looks pretty straight forward. If mine is bad, do you recommend using a real BMW DISA, or which aftermarket brand is ok? I also watched your video on diagnosing by looking at the fuel trims. I have a lemur bluetooth scanner that talks to my iphone, not sure if it is accurate enough to make a good check. I only get bank 1 lean code, and when I look at the trims with my scanner, the short term ones are much different between bank1 and bank 2. My bank 1 short term is always negative, usually less than -5%, but the long term bank 1 is 0. Bank 2 is postive, around +5% and and long term bank 2 is around 1% positive. Does this make sense, or do I need a better scanner? Thanks for your help and love the videos.
50sKid (1 year ago)
I have a video on testing a DISA to make sure it's still functional. With the VANOS, your idle will fluctuate up and down when they go bad. I would ignore that for right now as it has nothing to do with your lean codes.
thanks, answer help me a lot, to decide which band. That brand make the rubber o rings and all of the gaskets for bmw? And what you advise me to do with the thicknes s of the cylender head gasket the 1 mm is going to seal better than the 07mm? I undertand from you video that if you machine the cylender head and the block you have to use the thicker one (1mm) but if you don machine any of the parts it is better for the seal to use the 1mm
50sKid (1 year ago)
One head gasket is normal (0.7mm) the other is 0.3mm thicker (1mm). If the machine shop removes more than, say, 0.2mm, then maybe you want to go with the 0.3mm thicker one to compensate. Ask the machine shop and they will tell you which one to use. The o-rings and gaskets are made by various different suppliers. There is no single one.
Thmks, for the answer, Maybe you can guide I am having some slow leak of coolant in my engine it is M54 3000 cubic centimetres, I was looking and relace almost al the radiator colant piping, expasion tank, pipes that go next to engine block, but the leak is still there I never overheat the engine and the engine never goes beyond the middle in the car panel no leaks visible. I am guessing I could have a failing cylinder head gasket, I a not sure about that but in terms of brand when it comes to a gaskets wich is the difference between BMW and Victor Reinz and Elring. Because the prices are completetly different, Do you know who makes the gaskets for BMW? I know that if I have a failing gasket maybe I have to machine the block and the cylender head itself, but if the problem is only the cylinder head gasket I have to go 0,7 mm or 1 mm. The bigger gasket could help with very minor problem in the engine block and cylinder head I mean no having to machine them. Hope you you can help me I will apreciate.
50sKid (1 year ago)
The OEM gasket is Elring and that's what I recommend. You don't have to get your block machined, just the head if it's significantly warped.
James Warren (1 year ago)
Hello, I just changed my ccv. When I went to start my car it just cranks but doesn't start. I can hear the fuel pump but it's like there's no spark??
James Warren (1 year ago)
50sKid thank you! It was one of the fuses in the engine compartment. I really appreciate your reply. I also have gotten a lot from your videos. Thank you!!!
50sKid (1 year ago)
Thanks, for the respomse, but in wich units in-lbs, or ft-lbs, where should I look for the torque specificstond for each part? there is any web site?
50sKid (1 year ago)
Best bet is to purchase a Bentley manual (that's the company that makes it) -- it has all the torque specs in it. Typically a 1/4 drive torque wrench will come in inch pounds and that's good for bolts that require like 1-10 foot pounds (because that's 12 - 120 in lbs) and typically any foot-pound graduated torque wrench won't be sensitive enough to do, say, 4 foot pounds, accurately. 3/8" drive are usually 10-80 or something like that and 1/2" drive are, i dunno, 20-100 or 20-150. Just do a little research on the various sizes and you'll see. Typically a torque wrench will be most accurate in the middle of its range.
curtis bishop (1 year ago)
amazing videos keep it up
HI 50skid, I was wondering if you can advice me which kind of torque wrench i should buy, I mean in what range for example 20-200 ft- lbs, the main use is going to be work in a BMW E46 330CI engine. The other question is where I can find the torque spects for each part?
50sKid (1 year ago)
Probably something in the 10-90 range.
John Howard (1 year ago)
This was great. Now I know why my mechanic is telling me to keep adding a quart a month. Yep. They would charge me 1500 for this. My poor car.
50sKid (1 year ago)
Actually the quart a month is a different problem. search for my oil consumption video.
David Motoman (1 year ago)
Thank you for a great explanatory Video. Iam in the process of removing a Starter Motor. and your Vid Helped heaps ! Thank you like you iam a 50s Kid
BMW DOCTOR DEAN (1 year ago)
Men why you dont take you car main dealer and let then repair anything and everything it will be much better for you and as you say you have money to waste
amber Dobbs (1 year ago)
Why would a smg transmission have a gutless, lagging, halting, power dropping jerky automatic function? When it shifts in auto it jerks & revs in a arbitrary way & is a total misery to drive. Any clues? Light it on fire?

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