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BMW E46 Front Control Arm Bushing Replacement

492 ratings | 29761 views
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
Category: Транспорт
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Text Comments (95)
mack cummy (2 days ago)
I know a guy with a 10 ton press
mack cummy (2 days ago)
Who cares if the rubber is being replaced about what you spray on it.
mack cummy (2 days ago)
BMW is fucked. 13 and 16mm bolts?
Walt Whitman (1 month ago)
One thing I do like about the e46 is it seems to be a bit easier to work on than other cars. I too also found the additional TTY angle odd and just did the same 43 ft. pounds for my reinforcement\skid plate
Vic Orlando (2 months ago)
What was the wobble brutha man?
Ryan Murray (3 months ago)
So can I use the silicone paste? did it ruin them? I want to just slip them on!!!
50sKid (3 months ago)
Ryan Murray the silicone paste is just fine and doesnt hurt anything. Best way to slip them right on, but soapy water works as well
Ryan Murray (3 months ago)
Get a stubby handled 22mm wrench and a 21mm stubby handled wrench that way you can actually get really nice turns or in my case a stubby handled adjustable wrench.....it will save you lots of time and frustration being able to rotate/and get in that tight space with a smaller wrench!!!!
Forid Khan (5 months ago)
7:28 Cheeky 😏
I Got A Bimmer! (6 months ago)
My bushing was way harder to put on. I had to take the control arm off and use a ratchet strap to press it on
thefoetoid (7 months ago)
Great video, super helpful. Keep up the good work!
Michael Burris (8 months ago)
Hey Kid, AWESOME tip with the grease just by luck I had some, spent over an hour with silicone spray and a rubber mallet. Put the silicone grease pushed it on by hand in minutes... you are the man when it comes to "I KNOW A SECRET " THANK YOU!
Sergio Enríquez (9 months ago)
Hola 50skid podrias hacer un video limpiando injectores?
Darren Davidson (10 months ago)
I sprayed mine with penetrating oil & GT85 would not budge :(. Gonna get a set of gear pullers and see how it goes but it was not budging at all.
Darren Davidson (10 months ago)
yeah thanks, I got one delivered yesterday. Only thing now is its forcast rain all week :(. wish I had a garage....
50sKid (10 months ago)
try a large two jaw puller--if it pulls the housing off but leaves the internal part, you can pull that off with the same puller.
Blanking Blanker (11 months ago)
Legend, thanks for the vid
Iain Sutherland (11 months ago)
Hi Jason - thanks for another great video - was certainly envious of how easy you managed to get the new bush onto the control arm  - had to rig up a puller tool using 300mm threaded rods to get the bush on sufficiently far to allow it to recess into the guide rings on the chassis - control arm had to to protrude by approx 5mm out of the back of the rubber bush to allow alignment  - TRW bushes used. Still an excellent DIY job  - steering sharp again.
50sKid (11 months ago)
Soapy water or a light layer of silicone paste are the key to getting them on easy.
Josh Mack (1 year ago)
Hey, ever since I changed my bushing I have been hearing creaking/ cracking noise. Have I installed them wrong ?
50sKid (1 year ago)
I really can't say--it could be some other component that is also bad or you could have installed them wrong--some how
Elementro (1 year ago)
hey what brand of bushings did you buy for this replacement? did you use genuine bmw or something else off realoem? i will do this repair soon and am curious which ones are best to buy haha
50sKid (1 year ago)
I used meyle for this.
will shamanena (1 year ago)
great demonstration useful
David Dominguez (1 year ago)
Hey 50's kid - thanks for all these videos! quick question - I removed the bushing using a pull tool. I have sprayed the new bushing with liquid wrench silicone spray and i cannot get the new one on! It slides on a little bit and then the A-Arm pushes out. Any tools or techniques one could use to get this thing to slide on? The bushing i purchased is a URO part - maybe those are a little too tight? Thanks Again!
mailpup (6 months ago)
By now I'm sure you've solved the problem but I had a similar situation. I used liquid dish washing detergent as a lubricant and used my foot to shove the bushing on. Rocking it back and forth slightly helps too. Leg power beats arm power.
David Dominguez (1 year ago)
Thanks for the reply. I think I was unclear in my post. It's not the a-Arm that's moving - it's the bushing - i can get it on about 1/2 way and then it slides off. I'm going to try using the BMW bushing tool. I tried using a ratchet strap but couldn't get the bushing to stay straight.
50sKid (1 year ago)
Just push it up into place and bolt it on--once it's on it can't physically come out because the front is mounted to the subframe. Also, try soapy water instead of silicone spray. Maybe silicone is too slippery.
Kendrick Cheng (1 year ago)
I have some Meyle HD FCABs that are toast after 30k kms. How depressing. Will be replacing with Whiteline fortunately.
ORION SANFORD (1 year ago)
did you need an alignment after?
50sKid (1 year ago)
You don't
V.Vega (1 year ago)
My pre facelift e46 has a tubular brace instead of that aluminum plate. The tubular one definitely seems stronger, not sure why they would change it...
50sKid (1 year ago)
I totally agree!
blackpassenger (1 year ago)
maaaaan, that is the easiest control arm bushing to replace, ever. here i am dreading the day i have to do this.
Alphabiker1 (1 year ago)
Greetings from Germany :-)You have many good repair Videos about the BMW e46 i LIKE i have one :-)how about the Meyle HD???? because they are made complette of rubber....and the most you can buy are filled with flouid.......i read about the Meyle HD their are to hard.....Vibrations on the steering wheel.....
heera rodriguez (1 year ago)
Wish I had known about Silicone Spray before your channel. When I changed the driver side before I bought pullers I had to use brute strength to take it off. Never before had I felt like I was about to pass out.
Juan Guzman (1 year ago)
Hi Kid ,like your videos make me feel I'm in the garage watching how is the job done well done , can you help me up ? I just buy a 2003 330xi and when I break the steering wheel shakes , what do you think it is? The rotors looks almos new Maybe the control arm. Thanks for your time..✌🏻
50sKid (1 year ago)
Ball joints on the control arm or warped brake rotors. Jack the car up and shake the tire around while looking at the suspension until you see what it is moving.
coffee and cigars (1 year ago)
thanks for the video! regarding the torque specified by BMW/Haynes/Bentley etc. i like to just look up the torque for my specific fastener in respect to its thread diameter and material grade to make shure its in the ballpark. There are lots of charts out there that tell the torque (usually they are calculated for a µ of 0,14->friction factor and 90% of Rp0,2/Re->the elastic limit of the Steel used) ...i like the fact that you use a (nice) torquewrench...thats not a given on youtube lol =D you seem to do the stuff the right way, keep it up! edit: i looked up the M10 10.9. It would be torqued to 69 Nm when its installed dry. So at 59 Nm you are no where near the platic deformation range. The ones for the skid plate though are a different story. Based on 59Nm+90°+30° iam guessing they strech. At a threadpitch of 1,5mm, 90°+30° would equate to 0,5 mm relative movement . That means compressing of the "plate" and streching of the bolt. As the bolts are 35 mm long and assuming 1,5xD would be the minimum thread engagement there would be 35mm- 1,5x10mm=20mm that are affected by the streching. If we say the "plate" side is equally stiff as the bolt (plate side is normally way stiffer than the bolt side) there is 0,5/2=0,25mm of bolt strech happening which is roughly 1,2%. Total elongation before breakage is 9% for grade 10.9 steel. A simple test would be to compare a used bolt to a new M10 bolt and hold the threads "into" each other. This method works great for Headbolts and rod bolts...
50sKid (1 year ago)
I can tell you that the original bolts were not stretched. Thanks for all that interesting info!
Bryan Bielka (1 year ago)
Hey I just finished watching all the engine rebuild serie in 3 days that you have done and also the Auto transmission rebuild on that beautiful BMW e46. Man! you're a genius.. the way you several times improvised making your own tools Wow!... Thank you so much for doing all this to be honest Im a Bmw e46 fanatic I owed two e46s and i didnt know anything about cars on how to even change the engine oil thanks to you now i Know... and of course I subscribed to your channel!!!! Amazing camera work as well... Im planning to rebuild my M54 engine next year I have big plans for it... Im sorry for the bother but your think you can do a rebuild on a Manual transmission because I've seen some and they look totally different in the inside from the automatics.. But Great job man you earned a subscriber for life! Thanks in advance :)
50sKid (1 year ago)
I've got an automatic to manual swap project that I'm going to do real soon. Thanks for watching!
MoB (1 year ago)
hit it from the back
Would you say, that the behaviour, you were hoping to fix, can best be described as "tramlining", as in the car kinda follows longitudinal grooves in the road? On german forums lots of folks have this particular problem, some fixed it by changing their tires to something with narrower linear grooves, like the michelin primacy as opposed to the michelin pilot.
50sKid (1 year ago)
Yeah you can call it tramlining, however I failed to mention that I can definitely feel a little bit of play in the steering wheel at high speeds. I took a look and my steering giubo is still in excellent condition. My conclusion at this point is that there may be a little bit of play in the steering rack and I plan to change it out for another in the future.
David Westernall (1 year ago)
New subscriber and I have a question, did you intentionally buy the worst E46 you could just to help the channel? Seems you have had everything go wrong with it, how many miles has it done? Channel is great, I was a dealership tech for BMWs for a while, you do a great job and in many cases far better than a dealership would do. What makes the channel is you; the way you show things and explain things is really nice.
David Westernall (1 year ago)
Well by now it has to be one of the best E46s on the road, you have refreshed and renewed all of it and it will last for many years now. Plus everything you have done on it is to the highest standard, can't say that for many of the E46s these days, many have a collection of poorly done cheap repairs unfortunately.
50sKid (1 year ago)
Lol yeah I did intentionally buy a project car (and then decided to start a channel a few weeks later). It had about 165k miles when I bought it. However, I must admit that I didn't expect it would have quite as many problems as it has had. Didn't expect the transmission problems, for instance. Thanks very much for watching.
BunnyHairedKid (1 year ago)
where did you buy the bushings from?
50sKid (1 year ago)
ebay
rafael fuentes (1 year ago)
wow that was easy great video bro like always.
David Jander (1 year ago)
Ha, you really make it look like child's play 😉 I thought it'll be easier to change the complete control arms with the bushings already pressed on... It took me three days, a pickle fork and a 5kg sledgehammer to get the freaking ball joints to separate! They were just insanely stuck. Hit them with penetrating fluid, tried to heat them up with a torch... nothing. Just whacking the crap out of it for a long while was the only thing that helped. Btw, the original bushings are filled with fluid. Mine where actually leaking! Meyle bushings are solid and I have read they are not as good as the Lemfoerders or even Febi-Bilstein. For E36 the Meyle HD are great though.
David Jander (1 year ago)
I don't think that there is that much of a difference actually. AFAIK, Meyle HD are one of the better options for E36. I used that on my E36 convertible, and so far they perform great. I was about to do the same for my E46, but searching around, I found out about the fluid thing, which explained the strange leaks that I was seeing on mine. And Meyle HD for E46 being solid, made me doubt my decision, so I went for fluid filled Lemfoerders, which I think are OEM suppliers in this case. So far the car handles fantastically... well I actually replaced all the bushings in the rear also, including subframe, diff mount, RSMs and rear shocks, so I guess it has no chance but to handle great 😉
50sKid (1 year ago)
Interesting. I thought the Meyle's were the OEM ones, so I guess I messed that up
gentoolive (1 year ago)
Replaced the control arms/bushings on my car a couple months ago. Get a pickle fork, makes it so much easier to pop them out.
Tool0GT92 (1 year ago)
You can get a kit with the whole front control arms, ball joints, and bushings, and the bushings are already installed on the control arms.
Devin Smith (1 year ago)
There are ways to get around the stuck caster bushes. You can use a really big water pump plier or the longest prybar you can get.
SupremeVids (1 year ago)
I did mine at the weekend and let me tell you they weren't that easy in coming off the wishbone, even with penetrating fluid they were a pig! I also replaced mine with a polybush setup as they last much longer and it's an upgrade. Much better feel on the steering and no longer wonders. The standard bushings don't tend to last too long. Some people have reported changing them before a year is up. Good enough reason for me to go the polybush route. :)
SupremeVids (1 year ago)
https://psbushings.com/bmw-3-series/ I used the PSB604P found on this website. Very good quality and they were fairly cheap too. I've just checked and they have a distributor in the US too, https://www.armstrongdistributors.com/collections/bmw?page=2 $44.10 delivered with a lifetime warranty! Can't go wrong :)
SupremeVids (1 year ago)
There's always next time 50sKid, in say about a years time ;) lol
50sKid (1 year ago)
I probably should have done the poly bushings.
BarberKid (1 year ago)
nice video again! how come you didn't opt to upgrade to poly bushings, like powerflex. im running them right now and i like them alot
50sKid (1 year ago)
+BarberKid I'm soooo cheap. That is pretty much the explanation. Plus I want to show a normal, non "upgrade" repair video in most cases
Lupo-16v (1 year ago)
They were replaced already. The old ones were from Meyle. BMW didn't use Meyle in production. They used Lemförder.
soulseeka1 (1 year ago)
That's funny, my right one had a small gouge in it too. Must be BMW casting cause mine looked OE at 130k.
50sKid (1 year ago)
interesting!
omar k (1 year ago)
10.9s are extra brittle? That's the tensile strength of the bolts lol. Which is really strong
50sKid (1 year ago)
The harder the metal, the more brittle it is, actually. But it's just the outside that is hardened.
GMAN S (1 year ago)
Those crossmember 'Torque to Yield' bolts are part of an engineered system in the event of a crash or impact. BMW states they are to be replaced if servicing requires removal. My son and I decided we would reuse them only one time on our E46 with careful torquing. We did replace them when we installed a new Crossmember.
rueliotube (1 year ago)
Best explanation I have heard thus far for the angle torque on the skid plate bolts has to do with crash specs. Something to do with how the stiffener plate reacts in a collision. Not sure how exactly, but, I haven't heard anything better yet. My M3 has 16 of those bolts and it's the same tightening spec. Great video, keep up the good work. Love your videos!
50sKid (1 year ago)
Yeah the torque a fastener needs has nothing to do with what it's bolting to what, it has to do with the size of the fastener, the hardness, and the number of threads.
nms789 (1 year ago)
Also, these 8 bolts are stretch-type and must be replaced. There is also tightening pattern for them, the "skidplate" is structural componenent and without it being installed, car should not sit on the ground.
PlayerNineteen (1 year ago)
You read my mind 50's kid. I was thinking about doing these soon. Glad it is so easy.
dvatp (1 year ago)
First of all, you're not supposed to replace ball joints on aluminum arms. The aluminum bore stretches (permanently) when the ball joint is installed at the factory. If you try to install new ball joints the joints won't be completely secure in the arm. You can, of course, replace individual ball joints on E36 and prior vehicles with steel arms, but there's no economic or practical sense in doing that. New arms are cheaper and faster to install. Second, you're not supposed to use any lubricant when reinstalling the LCABs as the inner bore is supposed to be fixed to the control arm. You can use a 409 or Spray Nine type cleaner as a temporary lubricant. Do not use grease or silicone paste lube. FYI, BMW's original liquid was a solvent used to partially "melt" the rubber onto the arm to secure it and the instructions required that the car be back at normal ride height within 20 minutes of installation. That solvent was banned by the EPA so BMW recommended another solvent (which smelled a lot like turpentine) until they realized that was causing premature bushing failure. Now everybody just uses spray on cleaners like 409/Spray Nine.
CompCrasher86 (1 year ago)
The OEM were fluid filled (Lemforder?) units I think. Looks like you're swapping out another set of Meyles. So somebody must have done them before you. Also why they were easy. Getting off original ones with 150k, that was more of an adventure for me. Love these Meyle HD units on mine!
50sKid (1 year ago)
The silicone paste was the key--I couldn't get the meyle ones on without it. I tried but cut it out. I do believe the silicone paste will get squeezed out over time and the bushings will be just as tight as they need to be, however soap and water is probably a better thing to use.
Andrey Damianov (1 year ago)
I have a similar experience with OEM bushings, which fit tightly and there's no way to install them by hand.There are special tools made for this purpose, i.e. those made by Koch or MIS. My last set of front bushings was installed on new control arms outside the car and I needed a 4 lbs hammer for this - the 2 lbs hammer did nothing.The reason they recommend to lube with water is that the inner rubber surface of the Lemfoerder bushings sort of binds to the control arms after installation. Oil or other lubricants may prevent this.
Cd D (1 year ago)
hmm.... when I installed the bushings they where really tight. is there any repercussions for installing the smaller version?
edgar navarro (1 year ago)
i have a questing? where do you jack up the car from the front? theres a huge debate on the forums for this
heera rodriguez (1 year ago)
edgar navarro When doing this job on the triangular brace, the brace itself needs to be loosened since it blacks the inner bolt of the bushing.
50sKid (1 year ago)
Yep it's so stupid that they deform so easily--the earlier 3 series had a superior triangular cross brace that didn't deform like that.
CompCrasher86 (1 year ago)
edgar navarro there's a spot on the aluminum subframe brace, it's sits directly under the subframe. It may deform the first couple times you use it but puts pressure right on the front subframe which is good to jack by.
C P (1 year ago)
I read a lot that is necessary to torque the bolts After the car is on Level ground, otherwise you put the rubber on stress and they have to be replaced again soon. but maybe your Silikon grease will solve this Problem
50sKid (1 year ago)
Silicone paste is not "grease"--it is rubber safe, that's why I use it. You don't want to use grease because it will eat the rubber. Anders is also right--the bushing will not move so it doesn't need to be loaded first. This is not the kind of suspension component that you need to have loaded up before you tighten it down.
C P (1 year ago)
rsx123 mine was replaced the wrong way, and broke down 3 month later.after it was replaced again, but the right way, its fine since 2 years ago...its the same when you install a new strut. the bottom Nut has to be tightend on Level ground. but i think if you put grease in it, it doesnt matter.
rsx123 (1 year ago)
C O. I hear that a lot but do you think thats how they do it from the factory? No. They assemble the entire suspension with the engine and tranny on the subframe and then just bolt it all on. I think thats a myth honestly.
AndersDog94 (1 year ago)
C O. but the rod have 6 corners so the rubber cant turn on it. but if it was a control arm where the bushing a boltet stuck in the angel its in, then it probeally going to hurt the rubber in the long run
C P (1 year ago)
AndersDog94 when he lifts the tire im the Video by Hand, you can see how its moving; ) so it makes sense, but as i said, the silicon grease will solve it. you can also use soapy water instead of the grease, the repair manual says not to grease it. nevertheless, good Video, thank you, Kid. greetz from germany, manufactures from this vehicle; )
Cd D (1 year ago)
you can use a c clamp to remove the bushings. much cheaper than the two arm puller
Graham Clay Clay (16 days ago)
I've seen YouTube videos with people just doing that bushing all on it, s own lots of washing up liquid yo to put back on
vviiper (1 year ago)
Are these the bushings that always go bad on an e46? If you look on any E46 MOT history, you're sure to find front control arm bushings listed at some point lmao
scghost (1 year ago)
those cars are now ~15 years old, rubber bushing will go bad sooner or later
CompCrasher86 (1 year ago)
Yes, these are pretty common failures.
dziabi3 (1 year ago)
You did not put on rubber rings.. The old sleeve has two rubber rings. The rings harden the sleeves. Meyle does not use them but you can install them.

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